adminThe ancient city of Anuradhapura was completely overgrown until the last century, but these days you can pay a visit to this UNESCO worldheritage site. It wasn’t until the 20th century that the city was rediscovered, and temples, palaces, shrines, reservoirs, and dagobas were uncovered from the jungle. To this day, the temples are still in use, often bustling with pilgrims, tourists, and monks moving side by side. This creates a truly unique atmosphere.
How to get to Anuradhapura
Many travelers choose to explore Sri Lanka with a car and driver. In that case, reaching Anuradhapura from Negombo or any other city in Sri Lanka is easy. The ride from Negombo takes approximately 4 hours.
Public transport is also an option, but it’s a bit more complicated. A train journey from Colombo takes between 4 and 6 hours. I had booked a 4-hour ride, but in the end, the train took 6 hours. In Sri Lanka, you always know when you depart, but your arrival time is never certain. However, the train ticket only cost €2, making it a great budget-friendly option. You can easily book your train ticket through the Rdmns.lk app.
Local buses are mainly used for short distances, whereas intercity buses are a good option for getting to Anuradhapura from any city. You can book your bus ticket through busseat.lk.
A taxi is also an option. Expect to pay around €100 for a ride from Negombo. If you can split the cost with a few people, it’s actually not too expensive for the long journey. A ride with Uber or PickMe costs about half the price of a regular taxi.
Choose transportation
The old city covers a vast area. Travel guides often recommend renting a bicycle or using one from your hostel/hotel to explore. However, all the bikes at my hotel had flat tires—luckily! This meant I had to take a tuk-tuk instead, and given the heat and the maze-like layout of Anuradhapura, this turned out to be the best choice.
My tuk-tuk driver secretly dreams of becoming a tour guide, so he went out of his way to show me as many beautiful spots as possible.
Ticket or no ticket?
The whole ticketing system is also somewhat unclear. At some sites, they ask for your ticket, sometimes they tear off a piece, and others write something on it… Having someone – a guide or a driver – with you who understands how it works is definitely a plus!
A ticket is not cheap (by Sri Lankan standards) and is only valid for one day. For two temples, you need to pay an additional fee: Isurumuniya Temple and the Sri Maha Bodhi Tree. The general opening hours are from 7 AM to 10 PM. Most temples and ruins are freely accessible and do not have strict opening hours.
Dress code
The temples of the old city are still important pilgrimage sites. You’ll see monks and devotees offering prayers and making offerings. Be sure to dress and behave respectfully!
As with all temples, your shoulders and knees must be covered, and you must remove your shoes before entering. If you leave your shoes in the designated racks, you’ll need to pay a small fee. If you’re exploring by tuk-tuk, you can also leave your shoes there.
Don’t forget your socks!
Anuradhapura is hot—very hot. This means the stone floors around the temples can become scorching. Sometimes, mats are laid down to walk on, but I personally found them just as hot. A good solution is to wear ‘temple socks’—just a simple pair of socks you bring along to protect your feet from the heat. The thicker your socks, the less you’ll feel the burning ground!
Water water water
Bring plenty of water on your trip to Anuradhapura! While there are some stalls where you can buy bottled water and soft drinks, the prices are quite high by Sri Lankan standards.
Places that are worth a visit in this ancient city of Anuradhapura
Vessagiriya
The first stop the tuk-tuk made. This place resembles an ancient settlement in the rocks, but here and there, you can still find remnants of houses or temples. The remains of the rock dwellings are filled with bats, which is quite a spectacular sight!
Ruwanweli Maha Seyas
An impressive and bustling place. This stupa is one of the largest in Anuradhapura.
Here, I struggled the most with the scorching hot ground—so don’t forget to bring your temple socks!
Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi Tree
This site is supposedly not included in your entrance ticket. However, I didn’t see any ticket booth or checkpoint—so I just walked in! There is, however, a security check for your backpack before entering the site.
Here, you’ll find what is said to be the oldest tree in the world. A branch from the sacred tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment was planted here in the 3rd century BC. Today, only a single branch remains from the original tree, though I never quite figured out the full story. What is clear, however, is which tree it is—it’s surrounded by a wall and fence, and its branches are supported by golden beams.
For Buddhists, visiting this site is an essential pilgrimage, making it a very crowded and lively place.
Isurumuniya Vihara
Access to this monastery is not included in the main entrance ticket and costs 500 rupees.
The monastery is partially carved into the rocks, creating a unique and atmospheric setting. You can also climb to the top, where you’ll be rewarded with a beautiful view of the nearby dagobas.
Ranmasu Uyana (Royal Park)
A vast area filled with ruins. Some are beautifully hidden among stunning trees, while others are located near impressive water reservoirs.
Definitely worth wandering around and exploring!
Mihindu Aranya Senasanaya
The tuk-tuk driver suddenly pulled over and led me down a small forest path. It wasn’t until we passed a few other tourists with their drivers that I felt reassured we were heading toward something worthwhile.
And indeed, this tree was spectacular! It serves as a meditation site for monks who live in small huts scattered across the area.
Don’t be startled—beside the tree stands a monk’s skeleton in a cage. Apparently, this is an important ritual to help him transition into his next life…
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